Tangra Tower

An attempt on the unclimbed Tangra Tower (5620m) in the Khane valley, Pakistan Karakorum. They travelled by road from Delhi to Skardu, where they purchased supplies, and set up their base camp in the Khane valley, where they spent 9 days while it snowed. For acclimatisation they tried an alpine-style objective ‘Twin Peak 2’. Their attempt involved an approach through deep snow, and some great ice climbing, until lack of acclimatisation led to deep fatigue, and they retreated from a point about 150m below the summit. After a day of rest at base camp they started on Tangra Tower itself. There were 5 days of rounded cracks, friction climbing, aid climbing, pendulums, until they had to retreat after running out of water and gas.