New Zealand Batura Glacier

Although the initial submission was for a 3 person team planning to explore and hopefully make the first ascents of the South Faces of Kampire Dior (7142m) and Kuk Sar (6934m), the political situation put these out of bounds, and by the time it took place, it was of 2 people (both from New Zealand) hoping to make the first ascent of Karim Sar (6180m), on the southern side of the Batura massif. This had been the subject of a failed attempt by an Italian team in 2007, but all attempts to contact them prior to departure were unsuccessful. After a 2 day walk-in up the Shitinbar Glacier from the road head at Budelas, they established a base camp on a very pleasant site at 3535m, directly under the peak’s south face. The area had experienced more snow in the previous winter than for many years, and when Hersey suffered an undiagnosed illness, the prospects of success looked poor. Nevertheless, he agreed to set off with Deavoll, and actually reached c.6000m before leaving her to continue alone. This she did with great trepidation, climbing up a mixture of deep snow and 60º-70º ice until finally she reached the summit.