British Sikkim 2008

For some years, Roger has been hoping to obtain permission to make the first ascent of the south ridge of Gurudongmar (6,715m) in North Sikkim, and although under a barrage of requests the Sikkim authorities seem to be gradually relaxing their attitude towards foreign expeditions, Gurudongmar still remains off limits. However, after acclimatising in North Sikkim with first ascents of Marpo Peak (c5,400m), Ta Peak (c5,300m) and Changma Peak (5,000m), Payne and Samuel moved to West Sikkim, to attempt the southeast ridge of Rathong (6679m). Mixed climbing up to UIAA grade IV/V rock and grade II snow/ice took them to a very exposed bivouac at c6,300m. Very strong winds made it dangerous to continue on the exposed ridge above this point, so they aborted, descending with 18 abseils.