British East Face Kedardome Expedition 1984

Poor acclimatisation by some members of this small party frustrated Martin Moran's ambition to tackle the unclimbed 1600m rock 'prow' of the E face of Kedardome. Instead he achieved a technically difficult and satisfying first ascent of the 'Sunrise Pillar' (5,900m) on the E flank of Kedardome, while John Mothersele and Pat Littlejohn climbed to within 250m of the summit of Kharchakund (6,612m) by its W ridge; and subsequently enjoyed a 450m granite climb (overall UK-grade E3 with a section at 6A and several pitches of SA) on the NE ridge of 'Gangotri Dome'. Though disappointed by lack of time, lateness of season and poor acclimatisation, they were enthusiastic about the prospects for granite wall climbing in the Upper Gangotri glacier area.