Western Kokshaal-Too

The objectives were first ascents at the head of the Pagov glacier in Kyrgyzstan, including peak 5602. Base camp was established at the confluence of the Palgov and Grigoriev rivers at 3474m, 18km from the roadhead. From a 4200m camp in the hanging valley west of the summit they climbed peak 5190 via snow on the western slopes to the N ridge, and hence to the summit. On the descent they continued north over the previously unclimbed summit of 4973m. Their first attempt on Pk 5602, from a 4600m camp on the upper Pavlov glacier, was curtailed by a storm that put down 20cm of snow. Fortunately conditions cleared quickly, and they set off via a snow/ice couloir on the W face which led to the N ridge. This ridge was followed on good snow to the summit, which was reached in less than 31/2 hours from the camp.