Western Kokshaal-Too

The main aim of this team visiting Kyrgyzstan was to make the first ascent of the North Ridge of Kizil Asker (5842m). After meeting in Bishkek they spent a few days acclimatising in the Ala-Archa National Park, which offers an impressive range of high quality climbing. The journey to the Kokshaal-Too area was in a massive 16 tonne vehicle, which despite having 6wd managed to get trapped up to its axles in a bog at one stage, taking almost 24 hours to dig free. Once in the area, the team operated as separate climbing pairs. Gladwin & Stewart tackled Kizil Asker, and after three 18-hour days on the 2 km long 1400m high North Ridge reached the summit, taking another day to descend to BC. They graded the route WI3/4, Alpine V/VI,M6+/7. Meanwhile, Bide & Hapuoja climbed the N Ridge on Peak 4863m (AD) and Reilly & Schofield climbed the N Ridge on a peak not shown on the map (D). Finally Bide & Reilly climbed the W Face/S Ridge on Peak 5046m (TD/TD+). The above heights are as marked on the American Alpine Club 1:50,000 Climbers’ Map which they found very clear and easy to read, although their own altimeters recorded up to 400m difference from some spot heights. They noted that the weather in August tended to be colder but more stable than in July when most previous expeditions had visited.