Southern Fergana

The original objective was exploration of the Eastern end of the Southern Fergana Range in Kyrgyzstan, with first ascents of peaks in the range 4400m-4700m approached via the Kokbel valley. However they were prevented from entering this valley by a hunting party already established there, and had to come up with an alternative plan. This involved setting up a base camp at the base of the Karakol valley at 3000m, and an advanced base up the valley using locals with mules to ferry equipment. From a further ABC Josse and Duguid off to attempt peak 4450, but Duguid had to descend suffering the effects of altitude. Josse continued to the summit up an easy snow ridge. It being still early in the day he continued along the Pinnacle (Vershina) ridge to the south to peak 4557 with mixed ground grade II/III. He then tried to extend the traverse to peak 4701, but deteriorating weather forced him to retreat. From the original ABC Oliver and Josse completed another traverse, the Horseshoe (Pokova) ridge, which included peaks 4361 and 4330. An attempt on the N ridge of peak 4485 by Venier and Nugent finished about 50m from the summit in rapidly deteriorating weather.