Pumari Chhish

Despite being close to the Hispar-Biafo Glacier trekking route, only one of the summits of Pumari Chhish - the North, 7,492m - has been climbed, the ascent using 2,300m of fixed rope. With experience gained on their previous attempt (99/33A reported in AJ105), this duo hoped to make the first ascent of the 7350m South Summit. Base camp was situated at c.4250m on the Yutmaru Glacier, and with an intermediate ABC they reached their old Camp I on a col at c.5,100m, continuous snowfall supporting their decision to take skis. After both climbers had been hit by avalanches - fortunately without injury - they decided it was too dangerous to continue, and spent the rest of their time exploring the inaccurately mapped area.