Ogre North Face

The team started with acclimatisation climbs on peaks of 6100m and 6400m. The first attempt on by the full team was abandoned at 5900m because of heavy daytime rockfall. A second attempt was made by Normand and Pearson, climbing at night and sheltering in snow caves by day. The terrain up to 6600m involved snow and ice up to 60 degrees, and with one steeper step. From 6600m to 7100m the ground was of friable unprotected slabs, completely unlike the excellent rock on the S aspect of the peak. The attempt was abandoned at 7100m due to lack of anchors, and unsafe climbing.