NZ Womens Beka Brakkai Chhok

Beka Brakkai Chhok (6,940m) lies in the Batura range of Pakistan. Although some years ago an unauthorised attempt was made from the north via the Batura glacier, this was the first official expedition to the peak. Weather conditions throughout this trip were generally excellent, but poor snow conditions and a rock band that required fixed ropes (which they did not have) led to an attempt on the south face being abandoned at 6,200m - with possibly three days more required to reach the summit. They did however make the first ascent (up steep snow and ice) of another peak, which they named Wahine (5,835m). For success on Beka Brakkai Choka the climbers recommend acclimatising on another peak and also having an additional team member to help with load carrying (including rope for fixing) and leading, although it would sometimes be difftcult to find anywhere big enough for a three-person tent.