NZ Anidesha Chuli 2013

Anidesha Chuli (aka ‘White Wave’, 6808m) lies in a ‘Restricted Area’ in remote far eastern Nepal, and prior to this team, there is no record of any previous attempt to climb it. However, it is one of the very few unclimbed peaks above 6800m which are on the NMT’s permitted list. After establishing an interim base camp at 4600m in Ghunsa valley, they approached via the little visited Ramtang Glacier, setting up further camps at 4800m, 5100m, 5500m and 6000m. From here Dare and Scheele set out up the East Ridge hoping to set up one further camp from which to make a summit bid. When out of sight of his companion at 6500m, Scheele fell 85m sustaining serious head injuries: his companions managed to get him down to Camp 2 from where he was evacuated by helicopter a few days later. Dusschoten and Frost made one further unsuccessful summit attempt, before aborting. However, they think that they know of a less technical route to the summit which they would recommend to future expeditions.