N Wales Changabang '05

The plan to climb a new route on the west face of Changabang (to the right of the Boardman-Tasker route) originated with Twid Turner and Louise Thomas, who heard that the Nanda Devi Sanctuary had reopened. Unfortunately the couple had to withdraw from the team when Louise became pregnant, and on arriving in India, the others found that the Sanctuary was still closed. They were therefore forced to approach from the north via the Bagini glacier and 9km of the 'moraine from hell'. As they started the climb the weather broke and after heavy snow flattened their base camp, a Dutch team came to their assistance and lent them tents. However, the bad weather continued, so with food running out and a tooth abscess making its presence felt, they abandoned the attempt at 6,200m.