Muzcol

An exploratory expedition to the Ak Baikal valley in the Muzkol range in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous region of eastern Tajikistan. The team flew variously to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, or Osh in Tajikistan, met up in Osh, and drove to the Ak Baikal valley where a base camp was set up at the foot of the glacier. This was done with the help of a family living in yurts low down in the valley, and who were able to provide transport to the base. The original plan was to attempt a traverse of the unclimbed ridge at the back of the basin. Unfortunately this turned out to be a long and committing route on very unpleasant ground, so they changed their objectives. Four ascents were completed, three of which were on new routes on the previously climbed Pk 5560: one route on the N face (Monypenny, 500m PD+), later repeated by Cave and Conlon, and another on the W face and SSW ridge (Ward, 500m F). The first ascent of Pk 5792 by Monypenny was made via the NW face and NE ridge, and the name Mt Emily was proposed for this peak.