Muchu Chhish

Muchu Chhish is one of a number of 7000m peaks on a high ridge known as the Batura Wall in the Batura Mustagh, the western-most part of the Karakorum. The intention was to follow the Polish route up the South Ridge of Batura VI, climbed during the first ascent of BaturaV. They planned to leave the Polish route at 7260m, and traverse east below Batura VI to the ridge between Batura VI and Muchu Chhish, following this to the summit. They set off on an alpine-style attempt, but found that a long traverse which they had hoped to climb unroped was hard ice. Realising that climbing in pitches would be too slow for them to climb the mountain they decided to retreat at about 6000m. After resting at their advanced base they inspected their secondary objective, the South East couloir of Gutum Talji, but decided not to attempt this because of the lack of ice in the couloir. They then decided on a change of scenery and drove to Sust in upper Hunza, and then to Morkhoon village, and the Morkhoon Valley. They set up a base camp at 4300m, and identified Pregar as an objective. Oates and De-Beger bivouacked at 4900m, and made an attempt on the South Face, but retreated from 5600m due to unconsolidated snow.