Miyar 2004

This must surely be the first time that local politics has come to the aid of an expedition! To reach the Miyar glacier in Western Lahul this team had to cross the Rohtang La, but on arrival the pass was blocked by the heaviest snow in 25 years. However the pass had to be opened in order that ballot papers for the Indian election could get through to a number of remote settlements. If a specific peak had been its declared objective, the team would have incurred the bureaucracy of a permit, LO etc, so they simply declared their aims as 'exploration and rock-climbing'. Concentrating on the Jangpar glacier, not previously visited by mountaineers, Little and Lowther climbed a minor top, Christina Peak (5,420m) from which they were able to survey the surrounding mountain complex with its vast rock walls. They also climbed Lammergeier Spire on excellent rock at Alpine D. Meanwhile Davison and Kelly attempted a big mixed route at Scottish V but had to abort at 5,800m due to a dropped rucksack. However, they then put up two long rock routes (UIAA V) on the slabs flanking the Miyar Nala.