Mount Everest Foundation
Supporting the exploratory

Lobsang Spire 2006

This husband and wife team visited the Muztagh glacier to explore and search for big-wall climbing potential. Their main objective was the first ascent of the S face of Lobsang Spire (5,707m) but the route appeared dangerously loose, and an alternative traversing line proved unsuitable for big-wall technique and did not hold enough snow for an alpine-style ascent. Nevertheless, they reached a height of 5,200m. They then turned their attention to an unclimbed/unnamed 5,607m peak directly to its south, twice reaching 5,450m on the NW face of its West Pillar in 12 pitches from scrambling up to E4 6a (with about four still to go) before being repulsed by rain and snow.

July - August 2006
John Arran with Anne Arran and Muhammad Takhi

Other expeditions nearby