Link Sar

The objective was the first ascent of Link Sar (7041m) in the Charakusa Valley, a peak attempted in two previous expeditions by Griffith. The approach was by air to Skardu, road to Hushe, and a two day walk-in to base camp at 4300m. For acclimatisation they climbed Sulu Peak (6000m) and bivouacked on the summit, where Griffith suffered from altitude sickness. They decided to continue acclimatisation at an Advanced Base below the North Face of Link Sar at 5400m, and after two nights here went back to base to wait for a weather window. The chosen route was to climb the North Face, traverse the 1km ridge from the West Summit to the Main Summit, and descend the South Face. In spite of conditions on the face being by far the worst they had seen, and deteriorating weather, they managed to top out of the North Face after three tough days, but the conditions were too dangerous for them to continue to the West Summit. They believed that in good conditions they would have had a good chance of completing the route.