Kunyang Kish (7852m)

David Wilkinson led a lightweight 3-man team to tackle this complex and dangerous peak ('The Savage Mountain') on which a Briton, a Japanese and a Pole had each been killed in their respective expeditions in 1962, 1965 and 1971. The Poles reached the summit by the S ridge, but dismissed the N face as unsafe. Dave Wilkinson correctly reckoned that the spur leading from the Kunyang Glacier basin (off the Hispar Glacier) to the N ridge would go. It did, and, despite an un-circumventable ice-bump which was traversed on 2 attempts, the summit would probably have been reached, but for 2 successive 4-day snowstorms which confined the team at 6,850m in a snow-hole camp.