Khumbu 2003 Alpine Style

Because of the bureaucracy involved with expeditions to higher peaks, this team selected new routes on so-called 'trekking peaks' as their objectives, the first being the NW face of Teng Kangpoche (c6,500m). An attempt by all three climbers had to be abandoned at 5,400m when Bullock became sick and delirious. Safely back down, Powell had to return to the UK at this stage but Cartwright and Bullock (now recovered), returned to the fray. However, the weather had deteriorated, and no further progress could be made. To the left of the obvious rock buttress in the middle of the north face, the NE face offered an alternative possibility, so Bullock decided to attempt this on his own. He successfully climbed the entire face to the point where it joined the east ridge, and continued as far as a large crevasse in which he bivvied overnight. Unfortunately, beyond here the final slope was too dangerous to continue solo, so having reached within about 150m of the summit, he regretfully decided to abandon his attempt. He gave the route an overall grade of D+/TD-.