Janahut

The original plan was to attempt the SW Face of Rimo III in the East Karakorum, but permission was denied. Plan B was an attempt on the North east Face of Chaukhamba IV in the Garhwal Himalaya. They established an advanced base near the head of the Gangotri Glacier, and reconnoitred Chaukhamba. Strong westerly winds had deposited massive volumes of snow on the east faces, which made the proposed ascent too objectively dangerous, so they came up with plan C, an attempt on the unclimbed Janahut (6805m). Janahut had been attempted a number of times before, but the highest point so far achieved was about 6500m. They decided to attempt the South West Buttress, which had been tried previously by Andy Brown and Paul Figg. After two days climbing mainly at night when the face was safely frozen they reached the top of the buttress itself, and made a bivouac at about 6300m, a few rope lengths along a steep ridge of hard ice. The third day gave superb and exciting climbing further up the ice ridge and to a long horizontal section of ridge. Two hard pitches led to the top of a feature called the Castle at about 6660m. It was late, the summit was 140m above, and their tent and food were 360m below, so they decided to descend. The next day was spent resting and eating at the bivouac site, and two further days descending by the east side of the mountain to the advanced base camp.