West Face of Vasuki Parbat

Although the original intention of this expedition had been another attempt to make the first ascent of Janahut (aka Jankuth 6805m) at the head of the Gangotri Glacier, this year they were refused a permit, but fortunately managed to obtain one for Vasuki Parbat (6792m). Recent torrential rain had caused landslides and major damage on the road to Gangotri, and hence delays accessing the mountain area. After acclimatising on the nearby slopes of Bhagirathi II they started up the West Face of Vasuki Parbat, following a line attempted by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden in 2008. After climbing relatively moderate snow slopes, at approximately half-height on the third day, Deavoll chose to descend because she was suffering from the cold and poor acclimatisation, but the other two continued, despite Figg being hit on the shoulder by a large rock and Bass sustaining concussion in a 10m fall. On day eight they reached the long summit ridge, and on day nine followed it north, over the main summit to descend the North West Ridge, passing a metre below the highest point in homage to Lord Vasuki – King of the Serpents. This was probably the third ascent of the peak, although the IMF does not recognise the first ascent which was claimed by the Indo-Tibet Border Police in 1973.