'Jade Venture': Xixabangma

This strong team succeeded in forcing the difficult route up the E side of Pungpa Ri (7,486m) to make the second ascent of this peak, first by this route. After a retreat owing to severe storms, Venables and Hughes repeated this climb and pushed along the ridge towards the summit of Xixabangma (8,027m), retreating after a night at 7,700m. Further attempts were prevented by a Chinese ban on expeditions. Meanwhile, useful glaciological and other scientific work was being carried out by Henry Osmaston and his team of students in the Nyalam valley.