Hispar Expedition

The attempted first ascent of Machu, a 6630m peak in the Hunza Valley of the Pakistan Karakorum, by either the SW or W ridges from the Machu valley, or by the SE ridge from the Chaghuta valley. From a viewpoint above Hispar village the Chaghuta approach looked difficult, so they set up a base camp at 4,442m in the Machu valley near some huts and one day from Hispar. They established ABC at 4,760m, and from there climbed a 700m couloir to get onto the SW ridge at 5,530m. Unfortunately heavy snowfall forced a retreat from here. They returned and climbed to 5,550m in very poor snow conditions, but found their route blocked. They then looked at snow couloirs further up the Machu Glacier, which appeared to lead close to the col, and W ridge leading to the summit, but snow conditions were too difficult, so the attempt was abandoned.