Hispar

This trip was originally planned for a three-man team, but when both his companions withdrew prior to departure, the leader decided to attempt first ascents of peaks close to the Hispar glacier on his own. Despite breaking the pick on one of his tools on very hard ice low down, on Haigutum Middle (6,031m) he was within 50m of the summit via an Alpine AD route on its north face/east ridge when he was avalanched, falling more than 150m down the Kero Lungma side of the mountain. The lack of a second tool (and any companions), plus the onset of bad weather prevented him from attempting other peaks, but he was able to carry out a reconnaissance of the unclimbed west side of Tahu Rutum (6651m).