East Face of Dhaulagiri: International Expedition

The team of 4 led by Alex McIntyre established a small advanced camp on the NE Col early in April, 1980, allowing time for exploration and acclimatisation, before tackling the unclimbed E face on 5 May. They encountered severe weather conditions including electric storms, spindrift avalanches and very thin ice, which obliged them to move fast and unroped for most of the route. After 3 nights on inadequate ledges, they returned to the NE Col; they renewed the attempt from their previous high point on 17 May and, at midday on 18 May, all 4 climbers reached the summit, achieved in alpine style and without oxygen. As recipients of the Nick Estcourt Memorial award, the team agreed to name the climb the 'Nick Estcourt Route'.