Demar Djangart

Objectives were the ascent of unclimbed peaks in a remote area of the Djangart Mountains, and an attempt on the North Ridge of Khan Tengri. Because of the remoteness of the area the team were flown in by helicopter from Maida Adyr, a base 12 hours by 4×4 from Bishkek. The team split into two groups, and between them explored 3 glacier systems, one group on the most easterly glacier in the region, the other a small glacier to the west of this, and then a hanging glacier further to the west. Between then they made 11 first ascents of peaks between 4500m and 5100m, and put up one new alpine length rock route. Afterwards one group was flown by helicopter to Khan Tengri North base camp, and spent a week getting to camp 2. Fresh snow made conditions very difficult, and eventually deterioration in the weather led them to descend and fly out.