Chiling II 2024 North Face Expedition

The expedition arrived in India on September 12, established basecamp in the Lalung Valley on September 20, and an advanced basecamp the following day. On September 23, Chiling I was climbed via the 1978 Italian Route on the South Ridge at roughly AD-. The expedition then made an attempt on Chiling II’s north face and retreated after approximately 500m of difficult, dangerous and unenjoyable climbing. Conditions were extremely unfavorable due to a lack of ice and an abundance of poor quality rock and sugary snow. The expedition then prepared to attempt a route on the east side of the mountain, but before doing so received the unfortunate news that the American climber Michael Gardner - a close friend of the expedition - had fallen to his death on Jannu East. It was then decided that the expedition was best concluded early. The team quit India on October 15.