Chamlang North Face

The original objective of this team was to visit the remote area between the Khumbu and Barun valleys, to attempt the North Face of Chamlang (7319m). However, in view of heavy snowfall and reports of failures and accidents on other northern aspects, they decided to attempt a new route on the South Face of Nuptse (7861m) to the right of the infamous ‘Cobweb Wall’, which appeared to be in good condition. After acclimatising on other peaks in the area, they carried gear to the foot of the route, and took the opportunity to take detailed photographs of the face. Examination of these revealed that large sections of the route were devoid of ice, exposing loose slabby rock. With higher than normal temperatures, more and more ice was melting, creating dangerous conditions on all peaks, so it was reluctantly decided to abandon the expedition.