Chamlang

This team hoped to make the first ascent of the 2000m North Face of Chamlang (7300m) from the secluded Hongu valley, situated a week’s trek from Lukla. The peak was known to have had at least four previous ascents, but always by its West or South Ridges. Base camp was on a grassy meadow at 5000m just below Peak 41, and shared with Rob Greenwood’s expedition to that peak (MEF Ref 12/21). To acclimatise, they made several forays on peaks in the area, including making the first ascent of Hunku (6100m). They also climbed to 6200m on Chamlang’s West Ridge, and to 5700m on its North Face, but had to abandon the attempt due to rotten rock and strong winds.