British Takphu Himal Expedition

Conditions in the Takphu Himal area were unseasonably cold for the post-monsoon season. The team’s objective was any unclimbed 6000m in the group and upon arrival at base camp the first ascent was made by Bruce, who made a repeat ascent of Pk 6153m at head of Takphu North Glacier. Further ascents were made following this, including Takphu Himal by the West Ridge, and Til Kang by the West Spur. This was climbed by Bruce and Ed who negotiated seracs on the West Face of the mountain after reaching the Tibet border col. Bruce went on to solo a further four routes towards the end of the trip including Peak P2 (6521m) by the South East Face. Nick and Julian made a successful ascent of Pk 6055m from the South Ride which was gained by negotiating an unstable boulder slope. The expedition encountered no major problems however Ed, Christof and Nick sustained minor frost-nip on Til Kang, Takphu Himal and Pk 6055m respectively.