British Chomolhari 2004

Qomo Lhari (7,326m) in Yadong County, S Tibet (close to the Bhutan border) was first climbed in 1937 by F Spencer Chapman, but did not receive its second ascent until 1970 and its third in 1996. This husband and wife team's application for a permit to climb it was rejected in 2002, and although offered in 2003 was rescinded at the eleventh hour. But British expeditioners are very determined, which is a good thing, as it was third time lucky for this pair. Their plan was to make the first ascent of the NW ridge, and although they eventually found a safe way onto the route, they were forced to abandon it at 6,000m due to extremely strong winds. However, in their few remaining days, they managed to make a very rapid ascent to the summit via the S ridge. This was the peak's first ascent in alpine style.