British Machermo

Machermo (aka Phari Lapcha) (6,017m) in the very popular Gokyo valley is one of 33 peaks recently given 'trekking peak' status by the Nepalese authorities. Although one route ('Bonfire of the Vanities' ED1) has already been climbed on its north face, these two prospective guides felt that there was scope for another. Unfortunately, an unseasonably cold period meant that snow conditions were poor with little ice, making the face unclimbable. After reaching 5,300m on a rising traverse, they were forced to abandon their attempt.