British Jannu 1978

This team of four experienced British alpinists aimed to make the first ascent of the east face of Jannu, climbing from the Yalung glacier in alpine style. After assessing the face during some brief breaks in the cloud, the party decided that climbing first to the col between Jannu and Kangbachen and thence to the summit via the long ridge would be the option with the greatest chance of success. A first attempt on this route on 1 October came to a swift end due to heavy snowfall. A second attempt saw them successfully forge a path to the col over five days. However, with a long ridge ahead and limited supplies, they chose to abandon their attempt here. Considering further attempts would have little chance of success, they turned their attention instead to the French route on the mountain's South-West face which they successfully repeated.