British Janhukot Expedition

Drawing on the previous experience that Bass had on the peak, the team’s objective was to make a first ascent of Janhukot (6805m) which had first been written about as far back as 1938. After acclimatising on Kedar Dome (6940m) they rested three days waiting for good weather before striking out on the 1st June. Progress both on to and across the moraine was slow but improved once on the glacier, and the team set ABC at the confluence of the Gangotri and Maindani glaciers. Their first day on route found climbing of no harder than Scottish Grade IV, with a final short abseil bringing them to the first bivvy site. The next day required extensive pitched climbing and progress was slow to their eventual bivvy site on a small ledge. With the weather beginning to close in on their third day on route a secure bivvy was found in a palatial scoop; here they sat out the worst of the weather. They summited later that day in wet conditions and descended to ABC the following day.