British Hispar Sar 2004

Hispar Sar (6,400m) lies north of the Hispar glacier, and close to a very popular trekking route, so is relatively easy to access, yet remains unclimbed. This team attempted the steep Central Couloir of the SW face but a mishap with a karabiner in the dark from their bivouac point at the end of the first day on the route resulted in three stuff bags containing most of their food and brewing kit sliding into the unknown. Despite limited rations, they continued climbing (up to ED IV) for a further three days until the summit was in sight, but then a storm blew up which they were unable to sit out due to the cold and wet combined with a lack of gas. A multi-abseil retreat from their high point of 6100m was followed by a disorientating meander down the Yutmaru glacier and a return home. Nevertheless, the pair had experienced an enjoyable and hassle-free expedition, which makes them recommend other climbers to return to the once popular mountains of the Karakoram.