British Chang Himal North Face

Although Chang Himal (aka Wedge Peak, 6802m) in the Kangchenjunga Himal is reputed to have been climbed from the South, this team planned to make the first ascent of the 1800m Central Spur on its North Face which Lindsay Griffin had described as an ‘unclimbed gem’ in a magazine article. (A Slovenian team had attempted the line in 2007, but had been forced to retreat at less than half-height due to poor snow conditions.) This team established a Base Camp at 5050m on a very windy grassy plateau above the Kangchenjunga Glacier, directly opposite (and NE of) their objective. After an acclimatising on Pk 6215, (Dorma Peak?) and a rest, they started on their intended route, reaching the summit on the fourth day. Descent was by abseiling and down-climbing the ascent route, which they graded ED+ M6.

This expedition received the Nick Estcourt Grant for 2009.