Beka Brakkai Chhok 2008

Beka Brakkai Chhok (6,940m) is a peak in the Batura range of North Pakistan. Having failed on it with a two-woman team in 2007 (MEF 07/16) New Zealander Deavoll returned for another attempt with Bass from the UK. After acclimatising on Baktoshi Peak (6,050m) they turned their attention to the icefall to the west of the south face of Beka Brakkai Chhok, establishing a camp at 6,000m just below the col on the south-west ridge. At 3am next day they started for the summit, but after two hours thick clouds moved in and it started to snow so they abseiled back to the tent. Bad weather continued for 10 days by which time their eight-day rations were virtually spent, but nevertheless, they had one more attempt at the summit. Climbing a slanting line up the south-west ridge, they reached 6,300m where they were stopped by a long, sharp corniced section composed of suspect snow with no sign of possible protection. Considering this to be unjustifiably dangerous, the attempt was abandoned.

Note: The south peak of Beka Brakkai Chhok was climbed in early August by two Italians using the same route Deavoll and Bass had attempted, but there is apparently some doubt as to which spot on the ridge is the highest point.