Arjuna Expedition

The objective was the S summit of Arjuna (6100m) via the arête of its W pillar. From the road head at Gulabgarh they walked in via Kijai nullah to base camp. They acclimatised on an unnamed peak directly above the base camp, reaching 5,200m. They established a gear cache at the base of Arjuna South, from which they made the ascent. The first day involved loose rock, snow ramps, and then good steep rock to a large bivy site. The second day was continuous steep rock climbing following the arête to an exposed cold bivouac. The following day they reached the top of the pillar and continued to a final bivouac at 6,000m, and the next morning reached the summit. The descent, largely by abseil, occupied the rest of the day, and the following morning. They described the route as continuously steep and sustained at E1/E2, and occasionally E3.