Anglo-American Kokshaal-Too

The American/German portion of this team limbered up on ice/mixed routes of Scottish IV/V on peaks up to 4,600m in the Ala Archa before heading for Kokshaal-Too, the most southern range of the Tien Shan, in Kyrgyzstan on its border with China. With 17 summits over 5,000m and 60 between 4,000m and 5,000m, this is likely to become a popular area with Western climbers if the problems of access can be sorted out, but the present group faced virtually every setback known to mountaineering expeditions. Despite this, they did achieve their aim of making some first ascents: Pic Lyev, 4,600m, Pic Jerry Garcia, 5,250m, the Unmarked Soldier, 5,400m and Pt 5225. Pitch difficulty was up to Scottish V mixed.