1999 British Pumari Chhish

Having had a permit for an objective in India refused for the second year running, this duo managed to obtain one for the unclimbed S Summit of Pumari Chhish, 7,350m, north of the Hispar-Biafo Glacier system. Thanks to the efforts of their agent, they managed to clear all the formalities and depart from Islamabad on the same day as their arrival from UK. From an ABC at 4,600m above the Yutmaru Glacier they headed for an obvious spur on the LHS of the S Face, reaching its base (c. 5,400m) after a day of HVS rock climbing followed by 55° ice. With snowfall and avalanches becoming steadily worse, they placed a precarious bivouac at c. 5,900m from which they reached a high point some 300m higher before retreating down the line of ascent.