South West Face of Huaguruncho

The intended aim of the expedition was to climb the central spur of the SW face of Huaguruncho in Peru, a mountain first climbed by a team including George Band and Mike Westmacott in 1956. After acclimatising on the original route on Esfinge (5320m) in the Cordillera Blanca they headed for Huaguruncho but Monypenny was taken ill with a chest infection and they descended to sea level for medical treatment. There was then a poor forecast with no weather window for the next month, so they decided to head south to Cuzco and Bolivia seeking drier conditions with the intention of returning to Huaguruncho if the weather improved, although it never did. After an unsuccessful attempt on the S face of Humantay, they made a new route on Pk 24, and a route on Pk Maria, on the east side of Illampu in the Cordillera Real. Monypenny then soloed the French route on Huayana Potosi (6200m) as well as a new route on the S face of Illimani (6400m). He then made the first ascent of the SW ridge of Piruhata (5700m).