North Wales Alaska 2002

Although nominally a single expedition, the climbers operated as two separate pairs on different peaks. Collister and Cousins made two attempts on the unclimbed S Ridge of Mt Hess, 3,639m, but high temperatures caused instability and substantial avalanches made climbing too dangerous. However, a ski circuit of the Hess/Deborah massif was completed. McAleese and Turner made for the Kichatna Range, hoping to climb a new line on the massive 1,300m East Face of Middle Triple Peak, described as the 'Cerro Torre of Alaska'. However, the approach to Middle Triple was considered too dangerous to attempt. Attention was therefore turned to the Citadel, 2,597m (to its north-east) on which, over a 9-day period, an 18-pitch eliminate of one of Andrew Embick's routes was climbed on the East Buttress. Climbing was 'free' as far as possible, but most of the lower pitches required aid, and the route, named 'Off the Wall Madness', was graded A2, E3.