Mount Augusta 2013

Mount Augusta (aka Boundary Peak 183, 4289m) was first climbed in 1952 by its north ridge, a route followed by this leader in 1993 when making the fourth ascent. In 1993 he made an attempt to climb the east ridge (MEF Reference 93/29), but a badly corniced section on the approach spur from the north put paid to the attempt. In 2013 he returned, hoping that by approaching from the south, he would gain the ridge via long but relatively straightforward snow slopes. The flight into the range was delayed for a week by storms and record precipitation, so once on the Seward Glacier with a limited weather window they abandoned plans for Augusta, and concentrated on summiting Mt Eaton (3336m), an unclimbed summit on the east ridge. This they achieved in two days, and immediately started to reverse the route. On reaching their previous high camp, they decided to rest overnight before continuing the descent. But the weather was against them, and with only one day’s food they were trapped there for the next eight days, as an estimated six metres of snow fell. Each day they had to dig out the tent and re-pitch on top of the snow pack. Eventually, they called for help, and in a welcome break in the weather, a rescue helicopter was able to land nearby to ferry them back to safety.