Lightning Spur '99

The Central or 'Lightning' Spur is a very attractive line on the S Face of Thunder Peak (3,328m), but so far it has repulsed all attempts to climb it. Using a combination of mixed/big wall/capsule/aid techniques this pair hoped to be more successful. Their flight from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier was delayed by several days due to bad weather, but once BC was established they started reconnoitring the route. Unusually warm weather was causing massive snowslides and rockfall during daylight hours so the team decided to climb by night. Even then, rocks were falling, and Britain was knocked unconscious when struck on the head by one. On removal of his helmet (split by the impact) a serious head injury was revealed that required medical attention, so they had no choice but to abandon the attempt, and appeal for help by marking out an SOS on the snow with a coloured drink powder.