Hunter Foraker

The primary objective was a new route on the South face of Mt Hunter South. They flew to Talkeetna, and then to Thunder Glacier, where they scouted new routes, and attempted a route on Pt 9000 (Lightning Peak). They completed about half of this route, but aborted because of deep fresh powder snow. These conditions were typical in the Thunder Glacier area, so they decided on a change of plan. They flew to the Kahiltna glacier where they acclimatised on the west buttress of Denali, turning back at 17,000’ in freezing cold wind. They then transferred to their secondary objective, the first British ascent of the Infinite Spur on the S face of Mt Foraker, which they completed in three days, and descended in declining weather with heavy precipitation. The view of the Thunder cirque from the summit of Foraker showed much drier conditions than they had experienced, and possibly good mixed climbing potential.