Hubbard Glacier Mountaineering

Mt Vancouver, 4,812m, one of the major peaks in the Yukon, has apparently not yet had a British ascent, so this two-man team set out to remedy the situation. Their attempt, via the East Rib, proved that the route was more complex than anticipated, and after being tent-bound for two days due to poor visibility and soft snow, they retreated whilst it was still possible. With an improvement in the weather unlikely, they spent a day trekking 35km down the glacier with a view to attempting the E Ridge of Mt Seattle, 3,069m. After camps at 1,865m and 2,480m, they reached the N summit, which had never previously been climbed, although it is only about 30m lower than, and 3km distant from, the main top. The weather during this climb proved to be the best during the entire season.