Huantsan East Face 2006

The main aim of this team in visiting the Cordillera Blanca in Peru was to climb the couloir on the east face of Huantsan (6,395m). After experiencing several forms of transport including a so-called 'express' bus shared with a herd of sheep, they eventually established their base camp at 4,400m in the Quebrada Alhuina. It was clear that due to the unsettled weather the intended route was not in condition so, as an alternative, they decided to attempt the 1,000m central NE buttress on the separate peak of Huantsan Sur (5,9l9m) to its left. Despite overhanging seracs and massive ice umbrellas they successfully climbed this over a three-day period, calling the route 'Death or Glory' and grading it TD/ED