Huagaruncho

From a base on the shores of Lago Talenga the party approached the mountain from the north via a pass of some 15,000ft. By climbing a buttress of rock they were able to bypass an icefall and placed their camp I on a hanging glacier below the western col. From here they were forced onto the mountain's south face via which they struggled to regain the ridge, eventually succeeding after 7 days of effort. Once back on the ridge, an attempt was made on the summit on 15 August but ended unsuccessfully due to poor snow conditions. Two days later, Westmacott and Streetly reached the summit, the final section of their route having taken a detour onto the north face. Band, Streety, and Westmacott subsequently climbed the west peak (peak A). Tragically, Dr Matthews died of a heart attack on his return to Lima.