Eastern Buttress of Mount Hunter

Although there are two buttresses on the eastern face of Mount Hunter, prior to the arrival of this duo there was only one route, the Diamond Arete. The ground to the left of this is lethal, but starting in good weather from an altitude of 2,470m to the right, the climbing became hard mixed (Scottish 5) before they reached the junction with the East Ridge at c.3,500m. Despite insecure 'mushroom' cornices and deteriorating weather, this was followed to the 4,411m summit. Descent was via the West Ridge, but this was seriously delayed by light snowfall and thick cloud. They have called their new route The Prey, and graded it Alaskan 5, Scottish V.