British Yangmolong

Yangmolong (6066m) is one of the few remaining unclimbed 6000m peaks in Sichuan, and has become something of a target for this leader. In 2007 (MEF Ref 07/22A) he attempted an ascent via its North face but was stopped at 5400m by steep and difficult terrain with sérac barriers. However, during the trek out, the team spotted what appeared to be an approach from the east, so this return trip was to investigate further. They noted three possible lines on the East Ridge, although soon discounted two of them. Despite poor weather (rain up to 4000m and heavy snow at 4900m) which held them up for a full week, they established a high camp at 5400m, but were prevented from tackling the technical summit. Unfortunately, early in the trip, they discovered a dramatic attitude change in the local people, who not only stole from their tents, but also extorted money with menaces: the local police seemed powerless, and none of the team is keen to return to the area.